The Eyes Have It: Top Pro Tips for the Under Eye Area

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EYE BAGS, WRINKLES, PUFFINESS AND DISCOLOURATION

The Better the Skin Surface, the Better the Makeup

SOME TOP PRO TIPS……

We cannot change our genes that determine how we age but we can invest in a few weapons of choice to help in the fight against the ageing process.

Skin is at its thinnest under the eye with less collagen and elasticity.   As we age, the muscles, fat and tissues that keep this area plump and firm in our youth begin to sink and weaken and from your forties onwards, the rate that we los this small amount of collagen and elasticity that nature gave us to start with starts to rapidly speed up so, without some care and attention, it’s no big surprise that this will be one of the first facial areas to show signs of age.  Added to which, sun exposure breaks down collagen and so this is yet another good reason to wear daily SPF to slow this ageing ocess down – it’s never too late to start!  Of course, wearing SPF AND anti UV sun specs means less squinting = less crows feet!

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RULE 1:  DO NOT RUB!

Always remove makeup before bed and when removing eye makeup, DO NOT RUB! 

Saturate a cotton pad with your chosen removal product and let that dissolve the eye-makeup a few minutes before gently swiping away or downwards (i.e. down the lashes).  There should be no rubbing required!  Do not remove product with a flannel as this is too ‘rough’ a texture for the delicate eye area. 

Removal this way protects your under eye area from prematurely ageing which rubbing will accentuate while also conserving your eyelashes, which get pretty sparse as we age and we want to keep the precious ones that we do have!  Any makeup product still remaining can be removed with as many swipes as needed or a saturated cotton bud for those hard to reach places, but please, no rubbing!

RULE 2: CORRECT WAY TO APPLY EYE PRODUCT:

Again, DO NOT RUB, just tap!  Do not agitate this thin skin more than is necessary.  Apply your chosen eye serum/cream immediately after cleansing and before applying face moisturiser or serum.  Never apply direct to the eye lid – if you do, product can slip and slide to irritate your tear duct and your eyes in general plus it makes the surface slippy and slimy for any following eye-makeup application which will encourage eye makeup to move around and slide off throughout the day. Not pretty!

If using a cream, use no more product than the size of a large grain of rice for one eye.  Apply product with a gentle but firm tapping motion using your middle or ‘ring’ finger (because this applies this least amount of pressure) encircling the whole eye socket i.e. under eye area outwards to the outer eye area (where crows feet begin) up to the eyebrow bone and round toward the nose and down again.  Why? Because this application action not only disperses the right amount of product to the eye area allowing it to saturate closer into the eye as it gets into the skin but the tapping motion helps to disperse excess fluid in the eye area.

RULE 3: SKIP THE HAEMORROID CREAM

Yes….you heard me, skip it! You know who you are!!

It may have worked back in the day for famous actresses and even now for the likes of Kim Kardashian and other glamorous folk but using arse cream on your peepers is not a great idea. Here’s why: back in the Golden Era of cinema, many actresses used Preparation H or Haemorroid Creams but the main ingredient that acted as quick fix to tightened up the under eye area after a heavy night drinking, sashaying and looking fabulous, is now a banned substance, going by the dubious name of LYCD! Fast forward to present day, the ingredients that now appear to have a temporary tightening effect are hydrocortisone and phenylephrine, which are dangerous when used on a regular basis. In short, best avoided for extended periods of time as haemorroid creams can actually make the skin thinner and more prone to sun damage and general ageing. If you insist on using it as a quick fix, remember to spread thinly and only use in emergencies!

TIPS & TRICKS

  1. PUFFY BAGGY EYES: Try a product with caffeine to perk up those tired baggy eyes. Caffeine acts like an astringent (tightens the skin) but if you don’t want to purchase a caffeine product just yet, try out the following: put your old tea bags in the fridge and when they are cool, place them over the eyes for 10 minutes. Be prepared to be amazed! Otherwise, any cold compresses help to reduce the fluid that create puff– place a couple of teaspoons in the fridge and use the back of them on the eye sockets for at least 10 minutes or try chilled cucumber slices which are hydrating as well as effective at depuffing and helping to reduce dark circles.

  2. KEEP EYE CREAMS IN THE FRIDGE

  3. INTRODUCE RETINOL: There is no ingredient that is more studied or recommended by dermatologists. Retinol is basically a form of Vitamin A which stimulates cell turnover, encourages collagen production which plumps the complexion and keeps the area bright and fresh in appearance when used over time. Do a patch test first to ensure no irritation occurs and if you are good to go, start by using a retinol eye cream at NIGHT TIME ONLY twice a week in conjunction with your usual eye cream on the other nights you don’t use retinol. After a month, once you are used to using it, increase the retinol to 3-4 times a week.

  4. Look for an eye cream that has the FOLLOWING INGREDIENTS: Retinol, Marine Collagen, Hydrating Ceramides and Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C for brightening and Peptides (the building blocks of collagen and elastin).

  5. EMBRACE COLOUR CORRECTOR particularly for dark circles or pigmentation spots:

    • Orange, peach or bisque corrector shades cancel out dark shadows or pigmentation spots before applying concealer

    • Violet/Mauve corrector shades can really help brighten yellow sallow under eye areas

    • Yellow corrector will really help hide purple blue veins visible under the eyes and brighten the under eye area.

    EYE CREAM PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS

    THAT WON’T BREAK YOUR BANK ACCOUNT …….!

While most eye products tackle the problems of fine lines and wrinkles, many throw ingredients into the mix to tackle specific concerns such as pigmentation, dark shadows or puffiness. Below are some of my recommendations:

Dark Circles: Pixi Retinol Eye Cream £22 but ON SALE AT BOOTS NOW £14.67, Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Eye Cream £32 with a colour correcting pigment to banish dark circles prior to makeup application

Puffiness & Eye Bags: Origins Ginzing Refreshing Eye Cream £23, The Ordinary Caffeine Solution (apply prior to usual eye cream) £5.80, Face Theory Ocuwake Eye Cream £15.99, First Aid Beauty Eye Duty Triple Remedy £28

All Rounders: The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream £9.99, Kiehl’s Eye Fuel £27 for men instantly brightens tired puffy eyes and dark circles (and what it does for the lads is good enough for us ladies too thank you), Face Theory CeraQuench Renewal Cream Pro1 with Ceramides, Retinol and Vitamin C £24.99, First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyaluronic Acid £34

CHECK BACK IN FOR MY NEXT BLOG POST:

The Best Under Eye Concealers -Tried, Tested and found in most Pro Makeup Artist Kits……!