GET YOUR WINTER GLOW GOING ON

Get Your Winter Glow Going On

Is your face already starting to resemble a dried out old prune and crying out for moisture?  Looking it bit dull and lack lustre? Maybe it’s hyper sensitive, flaky, dehydrated, rough to the touch or even feeling a bit tight? Hydration, folks, is key for ANY skin type particularly as we head into Winter.  And all of these issues will only become exacerbated by applying makeup - particularly highligher products which we use to ‘fake the glow’ which will ultimately just highlight any skin textural irregularities and crepey, parched or flaky skin.

Low humidity cold winter air combined with the drying effect of central heating or open fires suck the life blood (or moisture in this case) from your skin.  Changes in temperature throughout Winter can wreak havoc on our skins and when combined with the dehydrating effects of excess booze and caffeine, hormonal fluctuations and various medications, our skin’s natural water content evaporates quickly resulting in our skin becoming as parched as the Gobi Desert and resembling sandpaper!  

Let me introduce you to my GAME-CHANGING WINTER BEAUTY PRODUCT:  the Facial Oil!

Wait……bear with me here!  Oils DO NOT equal greasiness.  This is expert luxury skin nutrition in a bottle! A GOOD quality facial oil equals glowy nurtured skin (trust me) and:

• will NOT make your face oily – in fact it can help to regulate sebum production and will promote HEALING for any acne or blemishes should you have them

• will NOT clog pores

The opposite in fact!    A good quality, and ideally organic, face oil can:

1. help reduce oily skin conditions

2. calm and heal acne (which I myself have suffered from) and soothe irritated sensitive skin

3. reduce wrinkles

4. alleviate dry and dehydrated skin by sealing in moisture and act as a great makeup primer

5. nourish deep down and protect the skin’s natural barrier

6. help to reduce enlarged pores

….and generally give you a beautiful healthy-looking, hydrated glow. I know, huh?!

Without natural oils, your skin would be dry and unsupple which is why our facial skin particularly produces its own natural oils using moisture from the air and what you choose to eat and drink.  Harsh skincare products can strip away the natural oils in the skin and so, to compensate, your skin produces more oil to keep itself hydrated and protected, thereby worsening oily skin conditions.

FOUR TIPS TO GET THE BEST OUT OF YOUR FACIAL OIL:

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Tip 1:  Use at night or in morning while skin is still damp from bathing or washing, to seal in moisture.  Equally, use a facial spritz and then apply.  If using in the morning, use your water-based products first such as hyaluronic or niacinamide serums and then follow with your choice of oil, thereby locking in the water content.

Tip 2:  Add 1-2 drops into your chosen foundation for a sheer finish and a luxurious looking glow boost - you will be amazed and may not even bother using highlighter makeup which is what we use to ‘fake that glow’.

Tip 3: If using prior to makeup application, I add just a couple of drops to my moisturiser for an extra moisture boost or use as directed in the evening.

Tip 4: Depending on your skin type, consider applying your oil just a few days a week instead of every day. Equally, if you start using an oil by using it just a few days a week and you still feel dehydrated or dry, consider adding a drop or 2 more at each application or use more often in the week. Your skin will tell you what it needs after all by how it appears and feels over time.

Top 5 Multitasking Facial Oils this Winter under £45

Here are my top recommendations suited to ALL skin types (including oily and acne prone skins because of their magical natural healing properties for scarring and blemishes). Take a look at these multi tasking christmas crackers if you are looking to:

1. BOOST hydration and elasticity

2. REFINE texture & BRIGHTEN skin tone

3. IMPROVE scarring and pigmentation issues

4. HEAL & SOOTHE all skins and CALMING sensitive, red and irritated skins

5. MINIMISE fine lines

6. NOURISH skin deep down

7. REGULATE sebum and CONTROL oil production

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Nini Organics Natura Detox Facial Oil £45 for 30ml

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Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate £40 for 30ml

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PAI Rosehip Bioregenerate Oil £24 ml for 30ml or £16 for 10ml

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GOW 100% Pure Prickly Pear Seed Oil £20 for 30ml

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BYBI Bakuchiol Booster £12 for 15ml

TOP 12 BEST EYE CONCEALERS (you will find at least 2 of these in every Pro MUA’s Kit)→

BAG ONE OF THESE TOP 12 BEST EYE CONCEALERS

(…at least 2 of these products will be in every Pro MUA’s Kit)

Modern life can be a bitch to our beauty, people! Step forward the miracle that is……CONCEALER: OUR KEY cosmetic weapon of choice, when in a hurry and zero time (or inclination) for a full face of makeup. Chuck in a lack of sleep, too much screen time, lack of fresh air, poor diet, the ageing process and so on; all these factors have a massive impact on our skin over the years and it is often the under eye zone in particular that gives the game away first. 

We expect a lot from our concealer and particularly our under-eye concealer.    Once applied:

• NO WAY, JOSÉ do we want our under eye concealer to crease, move, appear cakey or powdery (hell no….very ageing under the eyes)

• we most CERTAINLY DO WANT our chosen concealer to add luminosity, brightness, smooth the wrinkles, help conceal the ‘puff’, hide discolouration and frankly speaking we would like it to knock 10 years off us and to make us appear to enjoy 8 hours of unbroken sleep!  Quite a lot to expect from a product, no?!

Following my blog post ‘The Eyes Have It: Top Pro Tips for the Under Eye Area’ providing skincare tips for this most delicate area of the face, any of the following top notch under eye concealer choices, in no particular order) can be found in most Pro Makeup Artist’s kits and are considered the miracle products that seal the deal when concealing the under eye area.

“TOP TIP: try applying a thin veil of a concealer that matches your skin tone (or a colour corrector if you have particularly dark circles or pigmentation issues) before then applying a brighter concealer that is at least 2 shades lighter than your natural skin tone over the top to add brightness and luminosity thereby making you look instantly more fresh faced and youthful. JUST REMEMBER to prep the eye well with your choice of eye cream or serum prior to application, allowing time for your chosen product to settle into your skin thereby hydrating and preparing the under eye area for an easier makeup application without unnecessary dragging of the skin which contributes to creating puff and eye bags”

— The Good Tip Makeup Fairy

Acids and Actives in Skincare: The Basics

ACIDS & ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

What are they? Do I need them? What do we use them for?

Want to have the skin of a Hollywood A-lister without the hefty price tag or weekly maintenance appointments, read on!

…I know, sounds a bit scary, right?  “Acid? On my skin?” Fear not my friends….!

Many consider regular use of ‘active’ ingredients in your daily, or weekly, skincare rituals as your passport to ‘The Fountain of Youth’, particularly if your budget dosen’t quite stretch to botox, plastic surgery and other such procedures. Acids and Actives are touted around in skincare marketing and feature on a vast array of product labels but most people that I know haven’t a clue how one acid, or active, differs from the next or what they are supposed to do.

These magic potions can produce dramatic effects when introduced slowly into your daily regime and used correctly. Early subscribers to this new blog will know I promised to explain the matter of ACTIVE INGREDIENTS and ACIDS in my previous post so scroll down to get a jargon busting breakdown.

Acids or ‘active’ ingredients are pushed under our noses in adverts, emblazoned all over skincare packaging, appear in magazine articles and so on and yet frankly, it’s all a bit too scientific to care much about….or so you thought…?! Companies that refer to ‘active ingredients’ are talking about acids. They are one and the same thing and these acids, or actives, alter the skin in some way. Basically, it is more retail friendly to refer to ‘active’s’ as opposed to the scary notion of applying acid direct to your skin.

These powerful ingredients are naturally derived skin exfoliators and come with many added benefits. While they are designed to be used daily, sometimes twice a day, for those who have never used acid, or ‘actives’ before, the key is to introduce them to your regime slowly to avoid any potential reactions. Start by using your chosen acids perhaps every 3 nights/days and then increase to the suggested frequency incrementally so your skin has an adjustment period.

The most common ones split into 2 groups:

AHA’s (made from sugary fruits - Alpha Hydroxy Acids )

BHA’s (Beta Hydroxy Acids).

Both exfoliate by dissolving the dead skin cells that sit on the epidermis and share similar benefits but, in brief, if you are looking for anti-ageing and relief from dry, flaky or dehydrated skin, use AHA’s. BHA’s are used to relieve inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, pimples or rosacea. Here is a basic infographic I’ve put together to make it easy to understand the difference:

aha V bha Infographic P.hughes

JARGON BUSTING CRASH COURSE IN THE MOST COMMON ACIDS

and the issues they address

AZELAIC: an antioxidant that brightens skin tone and naturally occurs in the skin. It is anti-inflammatory and studies show that it is very effective at preventing or reducing breakouts. Many acne sufferers swear by this as this acid basically tells your skin to behave! While being effective on all skin types, including helping to reduce skin sensitivity, it is a particularly effective mild exfoliant that improves acne scars or discolouration after a breakout, uneven skin texture or dull skin tone. (AHA)

Recommendation: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% £5.50 and also available at Boots online, Paulas Choice Azelaic 10% Booster Serum (with Liquorice and Salicylic) £32

GLYCOLIC: Experts recommend this for general brightening, anti-ageing and exfoliating. This is a hero product, considered by many to be the holy grail of exfoliation ingredients penetrating deep into the skin. Bear in mind you need this in a concentration of 10% to be effective and to maintain its potency but it can come in milder solutions. Glycolic basically removes dead skin from the surface of the face to reveal fresher more luminous skin. Therefore it’s popular for treating surface skin scars left by acne, fine lines and wrinkles, skin discolouration, minimising pores and improving skin tone. It’s derived from sugar and a stronger product, yet similar, to Lactic acid (see below). (AHA)

Recommendation: Pixi Glow Tonic £18 or Mario Badescu Glycolic Toner £16, The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Solution £6.80, Ole Henriksen Balancing Force Oil Control Toner £22

HYALURONIC: This baby tackles dry and dehydrated skin. It is in fact already naturally present in the skin but ageing, pollution, diet and so on all deplete our skin’s moisture levels so we can help to top these up via serums , facial oils and Vitamin E. Hyaluronic locks in ten times more moisture into your skin so using a hyaluronic serum will turbo charge any further serums and moisturisers that you layer on top thereby making these more effective and your skin more plumped and hydrated. (AHA)

Recommendation: Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum £40, The Ordinary Hyarulonic Acid 2% + B5 £5.90 also available at Boots online, Vichy Mineral 89 Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum £18.75

LACTIC: Derives from milk and fruit sugar. Great for those looking to revive dull tired skin as it is an effective yet gentle exfoliator dissolving the dead surface skin cells while also softening and replenishing moisture . A great starting point to those new to the exfoliating properties of acids and a gentler version of its Glycolic counter-part above. If you are after a more hydrated, brighter and even skin tone but you have sensitive skin, this acid is the way to go. (AHA)

Recommendation: The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA £5.80 (the HA stands for Hyaluronic Acid) or Sarah Chapman Liquid Facial Resurfacer £41, REN Ready, Steady, Glow Daily AHA Tonic £27, Kate Somerville Exfolikate Intensive Treatment £21

NOTE: My personal recommendation to anyone who has shown any interest in trying a chemical peel (favoured by many an A-lister to keep that youthful glow and wrinkles at bay), is the fabulous product by Skin Doctors called Gamma Hydroxy Skin Resurfacing Cream which retails for £41.99 but available through All Beauty for £29.95. This is a pot of magic in my view with the combined effects of Glycolic, Lactic and Salicylic (see below). It has the same effects as a chemical peel jar minus the drama or ‘peel’ …or the price tag!

L-ASCORBIC (Vitamin C): Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant. Another hero product in the fight against the ageing process and you will find this listed in many product ingredients in varying strengths. Very effective in brightening the skin, reducing pigmentation and skin discolouration, evens out skin tone and plays a major role in overall skin repair and rejuvenation. Available as a serum or sometimes in powder form, but I would recommend using the serum from a practical point of view.

Recommendation: Click GET 20% OFF to get Face Theory’s Regena 20% Vitamin C Serum C20 £18.99 using my referral code,The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2% £10.30, Clinique’s Fresh Pressed 7 Day Pressed System with Pure Vitamin C £25.00, Kiehl’s Vitamin C Powerful Strength Line Reducing Concentrate £52 for 50ml

MANDELIC: A good choice for improving pigmentation, skin texture, acne, enlarged pores, signs of ageing. It can be combined with other acids to increase exfoliation. Not as strong as Glycolic, for example. Better for dry sensitive skins as some studies have shown mandelic usage can increase sebum production. Naturally derived from almonds. (AHA)

Recommendation: Click GET 20% OFF to get Face Theory’s Mandelibright 10% Mandelic Acid Serum using my referral code, The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% £5.80

SALICYLIC: This is the gold standard product to treat acne and blemishes. It clears pores and removes oil. It comes in a variety of forms; cleanser, toner, medicated pads (great for travelling) or as a serum. It penetrates deep into the skin to unblock clogged pores and in the process, it decongests the skin by dissolving the skin surface debris which causes breakouts. It basically deeply exfoliates and keeps your pores clean because of its anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. (BHA)

Recommendation: Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant (Toner Liquid) £28, Click GET 20% OFF to get Face Theory’s BHA Exfoliating Serum with 2% Salicylic Acid (Serum) £18.99, Cerave Smoothing Cleanser (Cream Cleanser), Medik8 Blemish Control Pads £27, The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution £4.20

……Last but by no means least, Niacinamide deserves a BIG mention…..This is a combined AHA and BHA.

NIACINAMIDE/Vitamin B3: This is a great all rounder serum which most could benefit from using. Firstly, it helps build keratin that is a form of protein keeping skin healthy. Like Hyaluronic, it also helps to retain moisture which is ideal for maturing skins. Furthermore, it reduces inflammation making it ideal for anyone with rosacea or blemish/acne prone skin while also reducing pore size, protecting against sun damage and environmental pollution, minimising fine lines and wrinkles and improving hyperpigmentation. However, it should not be used with vitamin c and some acids because it can make them less effective when combined as well as flushing or redness. It’s best to therefore use Niacinamide at a different time of day to your other acids i.e use one in the morning, the other at night. You can apply this under hydrating serums, moisturisers, oils and SPFs and you don’t have to hang around waiting for it to sink in. You could also apply them on alternate days. Or why not try this fab ingredient out in a pre-mixed serum or solution.

Recommendation: GET 20% OFF to get Face Theory’s Porebright Serum N10 with 10% Niacinamide and Azelaic £14.99, Glossier Super Pure Serum, The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% and Zinc 1% £5, Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster £41

Great Makeup Requires Great Skin: Your Skincare Basics→

GREAT MAKEUP STARTS WITH GREAT SKIN

SKINCARE BASICS FOR AGE 35 & OLDER

A good skin care regime is the fashion equivalent to yanking on a great pair of Spanx; troubled areas get lifted, everything gets pulled in and the lumps and bumps get smoothed over! In the same way that Spanx help you to rock a figure hugging outfit, a great skincare regime will have you rocking fabulous makeup.

“But…it’s a minefield out there, with a zillion products on the market! How on earth is anyone meant to know what works and what doesn’t?” I hear you ask….

Well….the honest truth is largely trial and error along with budget and skin type but there are some BASIC SKIN PRODUCTS and INGREDIENTS that are essential as we age to maintain optimum skin health and condition.

Many of my clients tell me they use the same skincare regime in their 50’s that they started in their late twenties. Equally, many of my younger clients admit they don’t look after their skin but spend a relative fortune on makeup. (Some younger clients even tell me they spray their faces with hairspray as a makeup fixer which would put the fear of God into any dermatologist and makeup artist but let’s not go there quite yet……!)

So, listen up Ladies! These beauties below don’t get to have their luminous gorgeous skin without a large amount of help in the skincare department before a jot of makeup gets applied and I’m here to help and give you some valuable info:

Skin is the largest human organ. Did you know that? Therefore, for that reason alone, it is worth the time and effort to look after it, both from the inside and out, as we age and understand its needs, much like our bodies, as we move from decade to decade. What worked for you in your thirties will not necessarily be giving you what you need in your fifties, for example. We lose collagen and moisture as we age which in turn means (depressingly) everything is on the downhill trend; we lose elasticity, firmness, muscle tone and get an increase in the wrinkles and crows feet department.

Shall we all get drunk and drown our sorrows now??! No…..because below are some of my suggested SKIN HERO BASICS for keeping optimal skin health starting in your late 30’s and above (though the younger you start a lot of this, the better) and keeping you looking your most radiant and beautiful best:

Skin Basics

Scroll on to your best skin….

• Gentle yet effective eye makeup remover: the under eye area is the thinnest skin on your face and therefore very delicate and one of the first areas to show age. NO MAD RUBBING while removing makeup unless you want to speed up the ageing process here! Removers do not need to be expensive - most makeup artist’s I know use Nivea Double Effect Eye Makeup Remover which is great at also removing waterproof mascara and under £5.

• Eye products: since this is the thinnest facial skin (as mentioned above), choose serums, gels or light creams as heavy products can encourage puffiness. If puffiness is a concern, try an eye product containing caffeine or equally, apply a caffeine serum before applying your eye cream or gel. The caffeine is great at rapidly tightening the skin under the eye as well as helping to reduce dark circles. Two budget friendly caffeine eye products are Caffeine Eye Cream by The Inkey List at just £8.99 from Cult Beauty or try the Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG by The Ordinary for £5.80 also from Cult Beauty or £6.10 at Look Fantastic before applying your cream or gel of choice. Equally, there are cooling eye gels and creams complete with roller ball or under eye smoothing applicator to de-puff and smooth out the under eye area prior to makeup.

• Cleanser: Do your morning cleanse either with a light cleanser such as a miscellar water or a face wash followed by a secondary cleanse at the end of the day to remove makeup. For that evening cleanse, if you only wear light makeup, miscellar water is generally fine but try to ensure you do a deeper cleanse a couple of times a week via a facepack or a thicker cleanser. If you are a makeup wearer, you may prefer to remove your makeup at the end of the day using an oil as a pre-cleanse (apply oil to dry face and then apply damp hands so the oil turns to a milky solution that you wipe off) prior to washing your face or try a thicker cleanser and massage that in well before removal. This facial massage helps stimulate circulation in your face, detoxify your face, plump the skin and brighten skin tone. Remember to dab your face dry with a towel - no vigorous rubbing!

• Toner/Hydrating Sprays & Hyaluronic: I rarely use toner. I find the best toner is a splash of the coldest water you can manage after washing. This closes your skin pores post-washing while also tightening and brightening skin tone. It’s entirely a personal choice but a stage you can easily skip and easier on the pocket. Unless of course you are using a toner formulated for a specific skin issue such as flaky dry skin or large pores, as one example. A good all rounder product everyone can benefit from is a hyaluronic hydrating spray or my favourite hydrating facial spritz, Caudalie’s ‘Beauty Elixir’ (it comes in a small and a large size) which smells delish and I can’t get on an aeroplane without it! Hyaluronic locks in 10 x more moisture so it’s a whole load more moisturising than simply spraying water on your face. A great hyaluronic spray is by the French brand La Roche Posay for £19.50 also available from Boots and superb for sensitive skins. Hyaluronic is an ingredient we can all benefit from as we age so if you don’t get it in a mist, I suggest you definitely use it as a serum before applying a moisturising cream.

• Introduce Acids/Active Ingredients: What is an active ingredient? In short, it is the ingredient in a single product that targets a specific concern but it can be trial and error as to what works for you as we all have varying PH levels in our skin. They come in variety of forms such as serums, moisturisers, face packs, spritzes or cleansers. Glycolic, Ascorbic (Vitamin C), Hyaluronic (see above), Salicylic, Lactic, AHAs and BHAs etc…I shall do another blog in more detail on acids very soon!

• Add an Antioxidant serum into the mix. This will assist greatly in the fight against ageing but importantly, it will repair the skin damaged by UV, which occurs even if you are wearing an SPF. This is where layering products comes into play. If you layer an antioxidant serum beneath your SPF, your skin has a good chance of repairing itself from any UV damage whilst also preventing the onset of skin pigmentation issues. With the exception of retinol serums (below) all serums should be applied directly after cleansing and then sealed in with moisturiser on top.

• Retinol/Retinoid (& Wild Indigo): Essential to keep you looking younger. Collagen depletes as we age and so does our skin cell turnover and repair mechanism. Available as serums or in moisturisers but these MUST be used at night time and in conjunction with wearing SPF in the day time as retinol is sensitive to UV light and direct sunlight and can reduce product efficacy. If you know you are sensitive to retinols/retinoids, check out products with Wild Indigo instead. Very effective and inexpensive starting points for retinol products are: The Ordinary and the super new cruelty free brand, Face Theory, (click http://facetheory.refr.cc/phillipah to get 20% off when purchasing at Face Theory).

• SPF & Pigmentation: speaking of SPF….again, ESSENTIAL for a variety of reasons but particularly as we age because age spots and pigmentation can become an issue for some, and quite seriously for many. It’s extremely difficult to cover pigmenation with makeup without trowelling on full coverage foundation, concealer and so on. So to keep pigmentation issues at bay, be sure to wear a good SPF (MINIMUM 30, ideally 50); you can always get the bronzed beauty look using makeup. I’m hearing good things about Glossier’s Invisible Shield which is a water gel with SPF 30 and great to put makeup over the top because it is water soluble. One of my personal favourite SPF’s if you have any hormonal blemishes however is Clinique’s City Block range. It’s non comodgenic and there is a slight yellow tint to it which diffuses and blurs any red beasts on the skin!

• Face Oils: most of us lose moisture as we age so a face oil is also essential in your skincare artillery to replace lost moisture and to retain skin elasticity, tone and brightness. A good face oil will sink into your skin and will not sit on the surface creating an oil slick. If in doubt, just use a few drops alone on cleansed skin at night or mix in with your moisturiser. Perhaps even try an essential oil skin balm such as Decleor’s Night Balm or Aromessence Oil range which all smell incredible!

• Moisturiser: choose a moisturiser that is packed with lots of skin nurturing goodies according to your skin type. Personally, I believe night creams are a bit of a marketing ploy and if you are doing all of the above, a separate night cream would be considered a luxury as opposed to an essential. You can just add a few drops of face oil into your moisturiser at night or skip the moisturiser and use an oil balm as mentioned. If you are using a retinol/retinoid, some choose to just use that and not to add moisturiser so have a play and do what feels most nurturing for your skin!

DON’T FORGET! Nourish your skin from the inside too. Maybe consider taking supplements specifically designed for skin, hair and nails or starflower oil which is more potent than Evening Primrose Oil, which is often suggested for a variety of skin conditions and skin health.